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Fashion industry insiders have criticised modelling agencies for encouraging a culture of “blatant racism” in the business and announced an emergency summit with race campaigners and politicians to try to tackle the issue.

The meeting, scheduled to take place in London next year, has been organised by Dee Doocey, a Liberal Democrat spokesperson from the London Assembly. Ms Doocey, a former managing director of an international fashion company, believes the fashion world desperately needs to face underlying racism in the trade.

“I can’t remember being sent a model who wasn’t white,” said the former fashion manager. “I don’t know if it’s racism, or just the fashion industry languishing in the doldrums, but it needs to change. Agencies only seem interested in leggy white blonde girls.”

Designers, model agencies, race campaigners and politicians are among those who will be invited to the event, which has been announced ahead of a national contest in November to find the next British supermodel “of colour”.

Sola Oyebade, managing director of Mahogany, the model agency behind next month’s Top Model of Colour competition, said: “This event will start the debate. We’ve been trying to get more ethnic minority models into the industry but if you don’t hold the purse strings or the power then no change can happen. Everyone looks at Naomi Campbell as the black model who’s made it, but …isn’t it worrying that no-one else has come along?

“There are so many good quality black and mixed race-models that would be great, but the agencies and the clients are not willing to take a gamble.

“Non-white people make up about 30 per cent of the population of London but we don’t even make up 1 per cent of the models.”

Cassandra Lee, 18, a finalist in the Top Model of Colour competition, said her skin colour had been a problem for her in getting work. “You have to try much harder if you’re not white,” she said. “You have to be perfect to be looked at the same way as a white model. Sometimes you hear straight up that they’re not looking for black models. It’s quite blatant. ” Another finalist, Stacey McKnight, 21, said it was ridiculous that black models were overlooked. “We’re British too, why aren’t we represented?”

One third of all Londoners are non-white, according to Greater London Assembly statistics, yet the websites of London’s leading agencies show there are hundreds of white faces for every handful of models from other ethnic groups.

Maya Schulz, managing director at Acclaim models, an agency that specialises in choosing models from an ethnically diverse range of backgrounds, said: “I always find it more difficult putting black faces out there. The racism you come across is not underlying, it’s blatant. People will say things like ‘Don’t send any more black models’, and one designer even said black people didn’t suit his clothes. And we’re not talking about small designers here; it’s all the big ones.”

“The colour debate is far more important than the size-zero debate, but it’s hardly had any coverage. The Black Girls Coalition was formed in the Eighties to combat it, but no progress has been made.

Modelling is not without a social conscience. There are people in the industry who are very concerned about the eating disordered, drug and alcohol abusing, party-on image models seem to cultivate. However in the end modelling is a money-making venture and whether or not a girl will be able to sell herself, the clothes she wears and the products she endorses are what is most important to industry leaders. Models have a mould and unless we are talking about specialty modelling to succeed in the industry you must fit the mould. Beauty aside, because as already noted not all models would be called pretty in real life, models must be able to project a desirable image. They must seem ideal so that the average woman will want to spend the money to be like them, wear what they wear, and use the cosmetics that they use. If you have what it takes to sell yourself and you fit the mould you just may make it as a model.

The Model Mold

To recap, here’s the basic blueprint for your average model. If you fit this description the next step is looking for an agency that will sign you.
A slim build
A height somewhere between 5′8″ and 5′11″ (there are exceptions)
Good bone structure with a symmetrical and angular face
Being naturally photogenic and/or a good knowledge of ones “angles”
Good posture and a strong runway walk (learned or natural)

What is Glamour?

Of all the styles of photography in the industry, perhaps the most misunderstood one out there is “glamour”.

By modern definitions, the word glamour means: alluring beauty or charm (often with sex-appeal). In photographic or modelling terms, “glamour”, concentrates on a models appearance and presentation rather than the clothes she may or may not be wearing. It is about creating sexually provocative images, with the model often appearing to be in a constant state of near-orgasm! It is about the attitude, the eroticism, the mood and sometimes nothing more than a particular look in a models eyes.

It is also the most popular market where the majority of models can earn a relatively profitable living. There are no height or age restrictions (although you have to be at least 18-years-old before a photographer will even consider working with you on a glamour shoot), nor are there any size issues. All of those pesky rules that are associated with the world of fashion simply don`t apply, which accounts for the sheer number of glamour models out there. In a sense, it is perhaps the most democratic form of modelling in the industry that exists. Everyone can give it a go! Those models that do succeed in this field reach the top, not necessarily by their good looks or stunning figures alone (although both help), but often by the sheer force of their personality and the professional attitude they bring to their work.

In recent years, the glamour industry  once the undisputed province of the Page 3 Model has been accepted more by the mainstream media due to the rise of the lads mags (or “mid-shelf” magazines), such as FHM and Zoo, to name a few. Every industry has its stars, & the undisputed queen of glamour has to be Jordan (Katie Price), who probably has the most cannily planned career of any model out there. Men want to be with her and women want to be just like her! Jordan has tried just about every entertainment outlet available to any self-respecting celebrity, and like Madonna has marketed herself as a brand to be reckoned with. Unlike other glamour models however who outstay their welcome, Jordan has also wisely seen that her days in this field are numbered, and has moved into fashion with consummate ease recently working with top fashion photographer, David Bailey.

It has to be stressed however, that Jordan`s career is very much the exception, rather than the rule. One has to think long and hard to find a similar success story. Sam Fox springs to mind, though the years have proved that she has had none of the enduring appeal or longevity of Jordans.

The irony of the glamour industry however, is that for many models it is anything but glamorous! For the majority it is about the inevitable travelling (be prepared for a lot of it!) to and from shoots in cold, inhospitable studios and locations as well as the inevitable dangers present for impressionable young women on the road to fame and fortune. It doesn”t help of course, that the term for “glamour” has been hijacked by the more extreme ends of the industry to make porn sound more palatable as a product for both photographers and models alike. This lazy and convenient categorisation of the industry itself to label everything as “glamour”, leads to inevitable confusion.

We can`t tell you the number of first-time models we`ve worked with, who have either assumed that glamour meant porn, or that it involved some kind of nudity. On the other hand we`ve also encountered models who have assumed that glamour simply meant nothing more than wearing lingerie (nope, thats modelling lingerie, which isnt the same thing at all). So the long and the short of it is this: glamour modelling can range from lingerie to nude work, but it does NOT insist on nudity of any kind implied or otherwise. What a model is prepared to reveal is based solely on the requirements of a photographer offering work, but more importantly, it is dictated exclusively by what is agreed between both parties beforehand.

Finally, glamour is not about how much you see, but how much you think you are going to see.

Modeling is, as you can imagine, a hard industry to crack into.  It is a very lucky young starlet who gets spotted in the street, most of us have to put ourselves out there and literally shine to get noticed. This week, we’re introducing one of our friends, a model who is new to the industry and all too familiar with the hardships and spectacular triumphs that come to any new model who tries to crack into this notoriously hard industry.  This week she is talking inner demons and portfolio companies.

Hi, my name is Amy* and I am, if you are to believe the reports, one of the up and coming new talents in the modeling industry and I am here at Modeling Advice hoping to advise you on how to not only get on this ladder, but have a chance at the top rung.

I wasn’t one of these girls who were spotted in the street.  In all honesty as a younger girl, I was gawky and too tall, always not quite happy with my body, which seemed to have too many angles in it, which did wonders for my co-ordination!  I got bullied because of it and I did honestly think I was this hideous ‘thing’…and then I hit puberty!  Those angles turned into dainty joints and long limbs and I actually began to feel like maybe I was a human after all.  The bullying from the boys stopped, the bitchy comments from the girls started, but I was euphoric to know that now it was jealously and there really wasn’t anything wrong with me.

With my new found confidence brought new friends, boyfriends, a feeling of belonging and it was at a family photo session that I realised just how much I liked being in font of the lens, something I had avoided at all costs when I was younger and so when my friends decided that they wanted to do something similar I jumped at the chance.  We had our prom coming up and so went dolled up to the nines to get pictures done in our dresses and then just have a muck about with the rest of our time in the studio.

I loved it and buoyed by the photographer telling me I was a natural I started seriously considering modeling as something I could do, proof of how far I’d already come.  I started researching modeling agencies, reading every fashion magazine and checking the back pages to see who my favourite models were signed with.  But despite it all, I never quite had the confidence to go for it, I figured I’d get laughed at and I never wanted that to happen again.

It was my boyfriend, Mark*, who gave me the confidence to go and see if I had what it takes.  He was laughing through my pictures on a social networking site including those from the shoot with my friends and then through the growing number of me that I was now proud to show off.  He looked seriously at them and me for a moment and then mentioned something that his sister – who has worked as a model – did when she was first starting out.  Id never met her, but he told me all about the portfolio company she had gone to to have a professional portfolio made and told me if I was serious I should contact them and that she always advised anyone wanting to get into the industry to do the same.

Yes I have been to diesel modelling before. Great company really helped me out with all the stuff you need when breaking into the industry. I was very new so to speak and they helped me out massively.

Ive used Diesel Models before and they are not an agency actually. They are there to help models who have the right look to get started. I was scouted about a year ago from another company but i was worried about them so i went straight to Diesel Models who helped me all the way to where I am now..

Research is always a good start and Ive always done the same. So when I came across Diesel models online I was sceptical as always but I have seen so much good stuff about them. I decided to give the shoot ago and I am so pleased I did. For anyone wanting to go to diesel models, they are great.From what I know and heard they are not a modelling agency, diesel models are a starting point, it says on there website – www.dieselmodels.co.uk
Diesel Models is here to help you break into the modelling world. We will help you get a few rungs up the ladder and get to a position where you can join an agency.Diesel Models is not an agency as it does not find models work. We also offer all our members the opportunity to go to a top fashion studio in Central London.This is also an opportunity to get some professional photos for your portfolio in order to show the agencies your full potential.

Ive also seen them online and they seem to have a lot of happy customers, I believe the quality of there work is really good. Go and try, what have you got to loose?

Sister and her model friends go there. My sister earns loadz of money so they gotta be good. She only works wiv da best.

I haven’t had any experience with them but a friend of mine got her portfolio done by Diesel, its really good quality and she says that she enjoyed her day, so im guessing they are good.

I’ve heard so much about diesel modelling and would just like a definition of what it is they do and don’t do as I don’t want to get scammed.  Can anyone help?

There is the wrong perception out there that diesel models is a scam and it is mainly for the reason that people make assumptions about what the company is and what it is supposed to do.  The most important thing is that it is a company, not a careers advice bureau and as such it does cost to use their services.  Secondly they are not a modelling agency and by this I mean they do not get you work.  Thirdly, as you can imagine, ‘Diesel’ is a name that is prone to being piggy-backed on by illegitimate companies whose bad trading results in bad publicity for a company completely unrelated to it. What they are is a portfolio company and what they do is provide the opportunity for aspiring models to try out, if u will, infront of the camera in a professional situation and then, if the model so chooses, provide them with a portfolio, for a price, that they can then take to diesels contacts in the industry.  They are basically a stepping stone to the industry and a way to gain experience and a professional portfolio.

“Size ‘0′ Modeling V Real Women

Size Zero is one of the phrases being used more common as the ‘perfect’ size for a woman. To some women, they will do almost anything possible to achieve ridiculous targets when their weight is concerned, but what some do not consider is their health. We are all made in different shapes and sizes dependent on our genes and natural build, some models in the Industry have luckily inherited a high metabolic rate, meaning they are naturally very slim but eat larger amounts of food than most of us, this is a minority – as most of us have to take part in the grueling practice of dieting, watching what we eat and exercising to maintain a healthy figure.

In the modeling industry, employers prefer to hire catwalk models over 5″8 and with a size 6-8 figure. This is due to them perceiving that onlookers will think the clothes look much better and proceed to copy that particular fashion. However, recently articles have shown models up to a Size 16 on the catwalk, which brings us to ask the question – ‘ Is ‘normal’ better? ‘

The average UK Size is a 16, Some of us may prefer to see clothes on women and visualise how they would look on ourselves, rather than worrying if clothing for a ‘catwalk girl’ would be too much for us to pull off.

Avoid modelling scams.

Modelling is not a cheap or free industry to be a part of. To think that you can enter the industry with no one knowing your name or work ethic and they will pay your way is ridiculous to even consider. Models have need to pay to be taken around to see clients. Pay to have their photographs taken to build up their own portfolio.

Photographers can be quite costly with their time. So it is always advised to use a company that is of the highest, professional standards. A good example of this is Diesel Models

Diesel Models is not an agency as they do not directly find models work. What they do is offer advice and instruction, organize assessment days, and assist with finding an appropriate agency that will then represent the model.

Diesel Models is associated with over 180 Model Agencies in the UK covering all areas in Scotland, Wales and England. They are also associated with a number of fashion studios that specifically cater to up and coming models such as The Blue Rooms (fashion photography), Pure Space Studios (fashion/commercial portfolio photography) and Sugar Rush Studios.

By registering on their site, users can access a number of areas of advice and are contacted by a New Faces Consultant to discuss which of their services could be of use. No upfront fee is charged.

Diesel Models has a tried and tested “5 Step Process” to assist models in breaking into the industry, and depending where a model is on that process, Diesel will assist with the next step and provide assistance.

Question: I have never modelled before but Diesel modeling have contacted me saying they can help. Is it worth going to Diesel Models or going about it by myself?

Modelling is one of the most difficult industries to break into. I started a good few years ago and without doubt I found it incredibly  difficult by myself. Ive researched Diesel Modeling on line and too be honest I wish they were around when I got started. They seem to help you with all the stuff you need to know at the very start. My opinion is great company.

Like the thread before mentions Diesel modeling is a great place if youre right at the beginning. I went to Diesel models and they helped me on the important things. I am skinny and quite tall so I thought that catwalk would be the right modelling but after I went for a shoot they told me that because I was so photogenic I would be more suited commercially I am so glad I listened because im doing really well for myself.

Diesel Models is a very good starting block especially if you don’t know anything about modelling. They usually invite models that have potential to a photoshoot, I went to The Blue Rooms in London. Getting a portfolio is such an important tool for a model so Diesel Modeling will help you get one if you are good enough.

I say go to Diesel Models… really hard work this modelling stuff… I don’t know anyone who has made a big name for themselves that didn’t have help!!

Def go. They can help you decide if it’s the career for you, if you have what it takes and then even help you with your portfolio.  They saved me the hassle and money of finding a decent photographer and make up artist and they know all about the industry.

Diesel models helped me become a model and gave me a list of all the safe agencies to apply to.

Yeah why not, I don’t really know much about them other than they are not an agency, but if they can help you and aren’t asking for you to commit to anything then what harm can speaking to them do. There’s a lot of dodgy agencies out there so it’s better to be safe and take advice before diving straight in.

Becoming a plus-size model may require a little extra height and an ideal size range, but you’ll also need drive and a tough skin to make it in the industry. If you’ve got what it takes and you’re interested in plus-size modeling, review the basics to get started and get your portfolio out there.

Create Your Portfolio

When you’re first breaking into the industry, you won’t need a full portfolio to begin making inquiries. Instead, concentrate on photographs that show your natural beauty/ versatility and that aren’t particularly staged or posed. Aim for at least 5 high-quality professional face shots and a few full-body shots in simple, flattering attire. Getting direction from a professional photographer is key when creating strong yet natural poses. Versatility can be displayed by hair/ make- up and wardrobe changes that show different sides to your personality and modelling ability.

An example of a good portfolio company is Diesel Models – See below:

Diesel Models is an organisation based in London that aims to help males and females, primarily in the 12 – 21 year old age bracket, break into the model industry and find an agency to represent them.

Diesel Models is not an agency as they do not directly find models work. What they do is offer advice and instruction, organize assessment days, and assist with finding an appropriate agency that will then represent the model.

Diesel Models is associated with over 180 Model Agencies in the UK covering all areas in Scotland, Wales and England. They are also associated with a number of fashion studios that specifically cater to up and coming models such as The Blue Rooms (fashion photography), Pure Space Studios (fashion/commercial portfolio photography) and Sugar Rush Studios.